Ruminations upon Wednesday April 16, 2025 through Thursday April 17, 2025 in Ko Pha Ngan, Thailand
It was a torrential downpour overnight with intense lightning. We had planned to spend the day hiking through a jungle with our new friend and tour guide Eviatar, ending at a beach accessible only by hike or boat. At 6:00AM I texted him to cancel. Disappointment loomed over us. We turned the morning into school and a Hebrew tutoring session. Fortunately, Eviatar texted mid-morning to ask if we could still go that afternoon since the rain had let up. I immediately said yes. The boys were so excited that our jungle trek was back on.
I tried feeding everyone before we left, but Matanel refused and Eitan barely ate. Uh oh. I packed some snacks for the hike but was nervous about hanger meltdowns.
Eviatar arrived at 1:00PM with a driver and van who dropped us off on what seemed like a random roadside in Haad Rin on the southwest side of the island. After cutting through a path that I doubt we would have found on our own, we began hiking up and through the jungle. Eviatar had brought a frisbee with him. Instinctively, Chaim took it and never let go for the rest of the hike. He really misses playing ultimate.
The trek was challenging. Steep and slippery. At times we had to use vines for balance and to pull ourselves up and over sections of the trail. The boys spotted cool bugs, lizards, and monkeys. We also passed a few houses with some chickens kept in cages. Eviatar explained these chickens are specifically kept for chicken fighting. The boys were distraught to hear that and wondered what would happen if they set them free.
The day was as hot and humid as all the others, and everyone got sweaty fast. At first Matanel was nervous about climbing, but by end he was eager to lead. At one precarious spot, Eviatar offered to help, but Matanel declined. Instead of insisting, Eviatar said, “Okay, okay. Trust yourself.” He was so good with the boys, and it was a powerful reminder to us of the importance of showing kids we trust them to trust themselves as they take calculated risks.
For much of the hike, Chaim, Amichai, and Eitan brought up the rear, talking about life, the world, economics, science, and more. These are the conversations that are so important and feel lost in the hustle and bustle of “normal” life. I hope we will find ways to keep space for them.
In the middle of the hike, Eviatar stopped us so we could appreciate the sounds of the jungle. “Stop, close your eyes, breathe, and listen. What did you hear?” Everyone stopped and followed his directions. The boys shared how they felt a light breeze, heard birds chirping, and noticed each other breathing. Matanel was starving, so we used the moment to have a snack of Bizzli and fruit. Rationing it out carefully and joking about monkey thieves that never came.
Toward the end of the hike both of my feet slipped out from under me and I fell right on my bum. I knew it would be a deep purple for at least a week.
After the hike, we walked to a beautiful beach only accessible by hike or boat. Chaim and the boys had a blast getting tossed in the rough surf. In retrospect, it was probably a little dangerous, but everyone had a great time. Eviatar played frisbee with Eitan. After about an hour, with sunset approaching and hanger looming, we decided it was time to leave.
We took a longtail boat – a traditional wooden boat with a long propeller shaft – to Haad Rin. These boats had been showing up in the news due to recent safety incidents during rough waters. I did not think we’d end up in one, but it was either this or hike back through the jungle at night and with no additional provisions. The boat seemed the safer bet.
Getting on the boat was a bit of a chore. We were supposed to jump up and over the siding into the boat. Huge waves crashed into the shore every half minute and the boat kept lurching just as we’d try jumping in. Let’s just say, I looked like a beached whale getting in.
The ride was bumpy and glorious. I was grateful for the lifejackets the two-person crew made us wear, even if they were oversized.
Looking back at the jungle, the boys were impressed by what they had accomplished when they realized that that was the jungle we had just traversed.
Back in Haad Rin, best known for its monthly Full Moon parties, is another large Israeli ex-pat and backpacker community. The Israeli House is located in the heart of Haad Rin. We stopped to eat there, impressed by the fact that Koh Pha Ngan, this tiny Thai island, has two kosher for Passover restaurants when our hometown has none! It was delicious. Matanel, Shai, and Eitan who were ravenous at this point, scarfed down schnitzel, giant hamburgers, and fries. I was excited that I had the opportunity to enjoy Pad Thai in Thailand.
We drove back to Srithanu when night had already settled in. On the ride, Eviatar quipped that the boys would sleep well that night. Chaim and I laughed. No matter how much energy we expend during the day, our boys always seem to have some left before bed time. It had been an extraordinary, incredible, and adventurous day. The kind of experience I hope our children have many more of in the future.
The next morning we were back in our routine: schoolwork and Matanel’s Cambodia presentation and Blooket game. He was so cute and we learned important facts about Cambodia and Angkor Wat.
During the previous day’s hike, the boys learned that Eviatar runs a Ninja Warrior class in Srithanu. They begged to go. After lunch we left for class, walking partway and then grabbing a tuk tuk when we realized we’d be late. The boys loved the physical challenge and playing with other kids. Shai and Matanel chose to use their own money to buy on the of the ninja outfits to share, and Eviatar threw in a free pair of shorts for Eitan.
After, we stopped at Chabad for more food shopping. Slim pickings. The winddown of Pesach was on the horizon.
Our villa did not have a washing machine, and with how sweaty we were each day, we may or may not have been “washing” our clothes in the pool and underwear and socks in the sink. We stank. Chaim had dropped off our laundry right after chag ended, but because the laundromat was cleaning all of the Chabad’s items, ours wouldn’t be ready for almost a week!
I desperately needed another pair of pants and a new sandals. All of the sandal options would have given me blisters so I stuck with sneakers. Pants shopping was nearly a bust until I found the most glorious, comfortable pair that could double as loungewear and dressy. Funny enough, they were made in Italy. The boys waited outside the store while I tried them on, and I was grateful for how well-behaved they are and how they watch out for each other.
