Ruminations upon Wednesday April 23, 2025 to Thursday April 24, 2025 in Siem Reap, Cambodia
Angkor Wat was built in the early 12th century by the Khmer Empire and is the largest religious monument in the world. Originally dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu, it later became a Buddhist site, reflecting major religious shifts in Cambodian history. Its layout, carvings, and orientation were intentionally designed to symbolize Hindu cosmology and later Buddhist beliefs, making it both an architectural and educational record of the civilization that built it.
Chaim and I woke up at 4:00AM and got the boys out of bed at 4:15AM. Everyone did a great job and we were ready for our 4:30AM pick up to get us to Angkor Wat for sunrise. Frustratingly, no tuk tuk driver arrived for us. I had to wake the sleeping front desk attendant to ask about the driver they’d arranged for us the night before. He had no idea what I was talking about, but managed to arrange a driver for us by 4:50AM. I could not believe that the frustrations from the day before were continuing. I worried that waking the boys so early on so little sleep would be for nothing.
Thankfully, we ended up with a fantastic driver. He was kind and efficient, getting us through the ticket line quickly and to Angkor Wat all within 20 minutes. As we walked toward the moat, Eitan spotted a dead scorpion on the road. The boys stopped for photos before I hurried them along so we wouldn’t miss the sunrise.
Sunrise was beautiful and Matanel did a fantastic job continuing to teach us about Angkor Wat. We walked for nearly two hours. It was 94°F, and only 9:00AM. We needed food and water.
Our tuk tuk driver then took us to explore the Elephant Terrace and Leper Temple. The boys were fading in the heat, so we skipped additional sites and headed to Ta Prohm, made famous by Tomb Raider. We explored the ruins and massive trees, taking photos along the way. By noon, we were done. As we exited Ta Prohm, we passed an orchestra of musicians injured by hidden landmines in Cambodia, remnants from the Vietnam War and subsequent Cambodian Civil War.
Back at the hotel, I tried getting everyone to nap so I could nap. I failed gloriously and eventually resorted to screen time. When I woke up, Eitan gave us his Japan presentation, which was informational and funny. Then, we played his Blooket. Leave it to Eitan to design a Blooket that really tested one’s ability to pay attention to details.
With limited time left in Cambodia, the boys and I opted to visit the APOPO Center per Matanel’s suggestion. There, we learned about the Giant African Rats that the center trains to detect hidden landmines without setting them off. We watched a demonstration with an adorable rat named Jordan. Giant African Rats are really large, the size of small dogs, with large ears. At the end, we were invited to hold Jordan. The boys were thrilled. Never in a million years did I think I would willingly hold a rat, but Jordan was so cute and soft.
That night, the boys handled ordering dinner much better, and Chaim encouraged me to take some time for myself. I booked a sixty-minute foot massage. It was one of the best massages I’ve ever had. The best part? It cost $12.
Thankfully, everyone fell asleep at a reasonable hour.
The next morning, I woke sore and parched, likely from the long day in the sun, the massage, and not enough water. We packed up and ventured down the street to a tasty bakery and café where I had the most delicious pineapple juice.
Still without a phone, Matanel and Chaim searched for a replacement. Chaim is our family tech buyer. To our surprise, there was a store down the street with a lightly used version of the next model up from the one I’d lost. He ended up getting it for some ridiculously cheap price.
The boys worked on their schoolwork until checkout. Then the five of us took a tuk tuk to Butterfly Paradise, Matanel’s final recommendation. Had I known how far away it was and or how rough the roads would be, I might have chosen differently. Bumpy roads in a tuk tuk is uncomfortable. But I’m glad I didn’t know. Butterfly Paradise is a fantastic hidden gem and worth a visit.
Started by an Australian couple as both a sanctuary for butterflies and a school for orphaned children in Cambodia, Butterfly Paradise combines environmental education with hands-on learning, teaching students about conservation, biology, and sustainable practices. In addition to schooling, the program provides practical job skills, enabling graduates to support themselves and contribute to the local community.
Visitors enjoy walking through a temperature- and humidity-controlled butterfly exhibit, learn about the life cycle of caterpillars and butterflies, do art projects, and eat excellent vegan food. We finally had the chance to try vegan Cambodian cuisine. Eitan and Amichai even enjoyed Kimchee with noodles while I tried Lok Lok. Everything was tasty.
The highlight for the boys was a visit to the Caterpillar Lab, where a student taught us about the life cycle of a caterpillar and metamorphosis. The boys helped release several newly born butterflies and were devastated when I reminded them that we had a plane to catch.
Filled with incredible experiences and so much new knowledge, we returned to the hotel to meet up with Chaim and then headed to the airport. With time to spare, I checked once more about my phone. No luck. According to my tracker, it spent the week traveling back and forth between Siem Reap and Bangkok. I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s still doing that.
