Reflections regarding Sunday February 23, 2025 in Mumbai, India
It was a Sunday morning and Chaim and I were in no rush to head out. We let the boys sleep in and then walked until we found a western style diner where we enjoyed a very late brunch. The diner had a fantastic backpacker meets college vibe with excellent breakfast food and jukebox that captured the boys attention. It also had the best toilet we had seen in India, complete with an automatic changing seat cover. Unfortunately, Eitan decided this was a great day to try and fast, which put him in a terrible mood because a hungry Eitan is an angry Eitan.
After brunch we walked to India Gate to catch a ferry. Although we had intended to go earlier in the day to avoid the heat, our no rush approach had us in the sun right smack in the middle of a sweltering and exceedingly humid day. Sweat was dripping ALL the way down. Getting tickets for the ferry was chaotic. There was no clear line. Just individuals who may or may not have been hired for the job to herd masses of people through a chokepoint while telling them where to buy tickets by pointing, shouting, and jostling. Chaim thought he had bought six tickets only to find out he had been given only two of the six tickets. Frustratingly he had to reenter the sea of humanity to get the rest of our tickets, which required the help of three additional guys shouting at the ticket provider to help Chaim. How anything gets done in this country is beyond us! Finally, we were ushered through a small gap and down stairs to the ferry. It stank! Smoke, exhaust, fumes. Yuck.
Aboard the ferry we were crammed into whatever bench seat we could find. Everyone was given a life jacket, but only a few chose to wear these. Again, the size of the jackets would not have helped our children. It was a one hour trip across the Arabian Sea to see the Elephanta Caves on Elephanta Island. When we first arrived in Mumbai, our tour guide had told us that Mumbai is the Dubai of India. I am sure that underneath the smog and pollution the views are stunning, that the sea was once beautiful, and the coastline really does look similar to Dubai. However, we wouldn’t know because we could barely see a hundred feet in front of us. Our ferry took us past giant oil rigs, trash, and a naval base island. There were giant trawlers and ships passing every which way. We were overwhelmed by the heat, but the ferry’s food vendor only took cash, of which we had just enough to purchase our tickets for the Elephanta Caves. I prayed the boys would be okay.
At Elephanta Island we disembarked by hopping from one ferry to the next until we reached the dock. We then walked a half mile through a crowded causeway. The first half of our walk was in the sun with no shade. Just as I thought we were going to melt, awnings appeared along with vendors who were packed in like sardines lining the causeway on both sides all the way up to the top. Vendors sold food, jewelry, trinkets, art, and so much more. The walk was really a climb up hundreds of steep stairs. We were in dire need of water. To our dismay, even though the vendors all had signs saying they had ways for us to pay through Google Pay, but we could not get internet on our phones. We couldn’t risk using our cash until we were through the cash register. Cue melting down children with one particular child running the stairs to try and “get away” from us, or in reality just trying to upset me because he knew I would worry. How did I handle this moment? Like any delusional parent who knows fighting with their hangry child would lead to far worse consequences than pretending to let them think they were getting away with their plan. By the time we reached the top, my thighs were burning, I was out of breath, and my lovely child was feeling very pleased with himself. Little did he know I was laughing inside because he had no idea. I had him in my line of sight the entire time.
After we finally made it through the ticket counter, to which we paid almost all of the rest of our cash, we headed straight to a restaurant and bought water and sugar drinks for everyone. Unbelievably, Eitan maintained his fasting, which we permitted so long as he understood this did not give him permission to be a grump and that he had to drink and eat before we were back on the return ferry. Lo and behold his mood changed and he was happy to participate the rest of the day.
According to UNESCO, The Elephanta Caves, located on Elephanta Island (Gharapuri) in Western India, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site dating back to between the 2nd century BCE and 6th century CE. There are four caves in total, aptly named Cave 1, Cave 2, Cave 3, and Cave 4. We decided to explore the caves backward so that we didn’t have to backtrack at the end.
The highlight is Cave 1, a grand temple-like space with intricate carvings and a 7-meter-high sculpture of Sadashiva, depicting three aspects of the Hindu god Shiva: Creator, Preserver, and Destroyer. The cave complex also includes impressive depictions of various divine forms and mythological scenes related to Shiva.
The caves exemplify a major milestone in Indian rock-cut architecture, featuring symmetrical layouts, ornate pillars, and a sanctum built in the sarvatobhadra (four-directional) style. They reflect both deep Hindu symbolism and artistic innovation, making them one of the greatest achievements in Indian art history, particularly for the Shiva cult and spiritual expression in sculpture.
We did not realize that some of the temples and altars are still used today until Matanel noticed a dead chicken offering while exploring one of the rooms. After that we opted to stay out of the altar rooms out of respect for those worshipping. The boys enjoyed exploring the caves. The even called it “cool.” The highlight for them, though, was finding a monstrosity of a bull frog hanging out in an old well.
When we finished exploring we returned to the restaurant for more drinks before descending the numerous stairs and heading back to the ferry. Poor Matanel accidently stepped in cow poop. Ugh! Thankfully, there was still a long walk ahead and it had all come off by the time we reached our ferry.
While boarding the ferry I noticed a family bathing a young toddler and his pants in the very disgusting water by the dock. It looked like the little boy had had an accident and it was their only option. The family ended up next to me on the ferry. The toddler remained bottomless, even when he peed right into his mother’s cupped hand while sitting on her lap. She didn’t even flinch. Just caught the pee in her hand and let her sari absorb it. It was obvious the family did not have many means and I couldn’t help but think of the organization Gabriel’s Project Mumbai that we had just learned about over Shabbat. They had two other young children. Halfway through our ride, I began reading to Matanel on his Kindle. (We bring the boys’ Kindles on longer journeys to help them manage long rides because they tend to have the zoomies otherwise.) The family’s little girl next to me was entranced. She couldn’t seem to believe I could read the words on the screen. I couldn’t tell if it was because they were English and her native language was likely Hindi or something like it or if it was because I could read.
Back at India Gate, Matanel and Shai told us they had to go to the bathroom, badly. We exited as quickly as possible to take them to the toilets just outside. Unfortunately, it was jammed with people. Amichai, Eitan, and I waited for Chaim and the twins to use the toilet. We watched street vendors work like well-oiled machines doling out what looked like a delicious one bite chickpea, tamarind salad or soup in a mini fried dough bowl. It was entrancing. Chaim returned with the boys. We found out the only available squat toilets. Again, Shai was a champ and happily used it. Poor Matanel had no such desire and held it in until we got back to our hotel.
We stayed in our hotel just long enough for a bathroom break. Then, we walked to Chabad for dinner. The food was mouthwatering good. I overate trying everyone else’s dishes. I knew I'd pay for it the next day.
